change 1997 Nissan Sentra front brake and rotor ..

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I was glance for instruction on how to change the front brake Trimmings and the rotors on my 12 year old 97 Nissan Sentra GXE. I found some credits instructions and videos. Some of they were not very useful and some had incorrect information. Here is my attempt to to illustrate the process.
Steps to change the front brake Trimmings and rotors on a 1997 Nissan Sentra. It is very easy.

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  • Step 1
     

    * Buy the rotors of local Automatic parts store so you can easily return they if necessary.
    * Do your on line shopping initially and lucky find the the best deal so you can ask for a price match.
    * I paid $33 for a pairs of front brake rotors at Oreilly's.
    * opened the brake fluid Tank top.
    * to engage the Urgency brake and park on a dish surface.
    * Put 2 bricks on each one of the back wheel, one in the front, one in the back so the car Fact not movement when the front Coil is lifted.
    * catch the hub cap off.
    * To loosen itself all 4 lug nuts slightly Front lifting the front wheel. That assistances minimize jolts of the car while lifted.

  • Step 2
     

    * elevator one of the front wheels. I did the right-hand side one first.
    * I used the 2 ton hydraulics jack that I bought a few years ago on the Black Friday sale.
    * Slide in a group of 2x4s or a jack stand under the car to catch the car up.
    * inferior the hydraulics jack's pressure so that majority of the weight is on the jack stand or the 2x4s but subsistence the hydraulics jack raised just as a backup.
    * Now To loosen itself all 4 lug nuts use the machine provided crow-bar like tool.
    * Front you to remove the wheel, catch a chalk and mark one of the lug nuts and the correspondence screw and the position on the Coil so you can put it back exactly the way it was before.
    * to remove the wheel.

  • Step 3
     

    * Now, carefully opened the car Carry and movement the direction wheel all the way to the right-hand side so the naked wheel assembly movements to the right. You see the parts better that way.
    * You need a 14 MM socket. Use a a long time pipe if you to have to in order to get power and to unscrew if needed.
    * I saw on a Youtube video that a guy was hammering the rachet to To loosen itself the 2 gauge screws. It is not recommended. I really broke a rachet that way. Always use a a long time pipe to to prolong the handle of the ratchet.
    * Carefully to remove the gauge assembly and blow it with a clothing hanger. See photo. to make sure the brake fluid lines are not stressed.

  • Step 4
     

    * use a C-clamp slightly press back the round brake pressure apparatus. This stage was not Necessary for me since I was not replacement the brake Trimmings which were less that a year old and hardly used.
    * to remove the brake Trimmings and to make sure the 2 little Arises pins are too removed.
    * Clean the assembly that catches the brake pads.
    * Now you the need to to remove the assembly that catches the brake pads.
    * You need a 17 MM Casing and a 2 or 3 inch extension. The prolongation is Necessary because there is a screw that is on the way to the gauge screw/socket. See photo.
    * Those 2 Screw were very hard to to remove on my 12 year old car.

  • Step 5
     

    * I carefully pulverized the Screw with lubricant that is particularly made to To loosen itself rusted nuts and bolts.
    * Then I tested to to tighten the screw a little bit instead of that of loosening. That helped.
    * Then I attache a pipe to to prolong the rachet handle and that helped a lot with unscrewing both screws.
    * catch the old rotor off. It would have come off easily. If not, very gently tap it with a hammer.
    * jet the new rotor with any Acetone based brake Pickling solution and to remove as much oil of it as possible. Without Displacement of the oil, the rotor smoke when used the initially time. I used some nail Pole remover to do the cleaning.

  • Step 6
     

    * Use a dab of a high the temperature brake lubricate on all Screw after cleaning them. You can buy a lubricate tube for $1.
    * Slap in the new rotor. catch the new rotor in position by screwing in one of the inferior lug nuts.
    * Clean the brake pad support assembly and screw it back use the 17 MM screws. to make sure Those screws are very tight.
    * Clean the gauge assembly. Put the holds on the back of the Trimmings and use the high the temperature brake lubricate on the back of the shims.

  • Step 7
     

    * Slap in the new brake pads. The pad with the a long time metal tab goes in the back. Put back the 2 pin springs. See photo.
    * Put back the gauge assembly. Put the 14 MM gauge screws back and to make sure the gauge assembly can movement side by side slightly. to make sure the rotor can to turn slightly.

  • Step 8
     

    * to remove the solo lug nut that was possession the new rotor in place.
    * Put back the wheel. Put the 4 lug nuts back with the pointy edge inside. beginning with the bottom one and to tighten criss-cross.

  • Step 9
     

    * Carefully to turn the direction wheel so the front wheels are directly again. Jack up the front-right side slightly in order to to remove the 2x4s or jack stands initially and then to remove the hydraulics jack carefully.
    * to follow the above stages for the left-front wheel. Put all including the hub cap back. Inside the car, press the brake slowly all the way downwards a few times. sufficiency the brake fluid Tank with DOT3 brake fluid if necessary.

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